In August I was in Uji one day and took the opportunity to visit the Byodo-in temple. As the pandemic has drastically reduced the number of tourists in Kyoto, I thought it was a good opportunity to view the famous Phoenix Hall minus the hordes of visitors that were there on my last visit - a good five years ago. Although this time there were a fair number of domestic tourists … [Read more...]
Myoshin-ji Article on Inside Kyoto
A few weeks ago I spent two pleasant days exploring the Zen temple complex of Myoshin-ji in north-western Kyoto. The results are now up on Chris Rowthorn's Inside Kyoto website. This is my last article of 2015. Myoshin-ji, or “Sublime Heart Temple,” is a massive Zen temple complex in the north west of Kyoto. In addition to its main buildings the grounds contain 46 … [Read more...]
Exploring Daitoku-ji on Inside Kyoto
Last month I spent a couple of days exploring the Zen gardens of the Daitoku-ji Temple complex, and the results are now up on Chris Rowthorn's Inside Kyoto website. Daitoku-ji was originally built as a small Zen temple in 1319. Like many historical sites in Kyoto, it was repeatedly destroyed by war and fire before being rebuilt on a grander scale by Zen master Ikkyu Sojun … [Read more...]
Deep Kyoto on CNN Travel
In case you missed it, my recommendations for what to see, do, buy, & eat when in "Japan's most photogenic city" are now up on the CNN Travel site. Everyone should visit Kyoto at least once. It's Japan's best preserved ancient city. Shrines, temples, palaces, gardens ... the city is home to thousands of architectural wonders, including 17 UNESCO World Heritage … [Read more...]
A Trip to Uji on Inside Kyoto
My article, A Trip to Uji, is now up on Chris Rowthorn's Inside Kyoto site. In it I describe a complete circuit of all of Uji's major sites. Uji is a remarkably well preserved town with several shrines and temples of historical interest, including two World Heritage Sites, and all set within a beautiful natural landscape. Many locations there are associated with the Tale of … [Read more...]
Exploring Fushimi on Inside Kyoto
My latest article for Inside Kyoto is an exploration of the backstreets and waterways of Fushimi - Kyoto's famed sake making district. Included in the article are places to taste sake, a boating cruise, a visit to the Teradaya Inn (where Sakamoto Ryoma narrowly escaped assassination), and a Buddhist temple dedicated to a Hindu river deity that happens to have a Hidden Christian … [Read more...]
Azaleas at Myoman-ji Temple
Azaleas, (called very prettily tsutsuji in Japanese), are blooming all over Kyoto right now, but we won't be able to enjoy them for much longer. If you get a chance I recommend going to see the display of azaleas at the entrance to Myomanji in northern Kyoto. Here are some pictures I took there last year. The grounds here are quiet and pleasant but the most striking thing … [Read more...]
Omuro Sakura at Ninna-ji Temple
This year's cherry blossom season was basically a washout, with many hanami parties cancelled because of the incessant rain. Ninna-ji Temple in western Kyoto, has a special variety of cherry blossom that blooms later than most, but when it was at its best last week, the rain was still coming down. Mewby and I resolved to defy the weather and visit the temple anyway. At least, I … [Read more...]
Gion Walking on Inside Kyoto
Walking in Gion, my latest article for Chris Rowthorn's Inside Kyoto, is now available online. For this piece I took a daytime tour of Gion's main sites and historical landmarks, taking in some craft and antique shops and sweet shops on the way. I spent a long time on Hanami-koji, trying to get a decent shot of the Ichiriki Chaya unobscured by face-masked pedestrians and … [Read more...]
Fire Ceremony & Kyōgen Performance at Seiryō-ji on March 15th
Many temples hold special ceremonies on March 15th to commemorate the Buddha's death, or passing into Nirvana (Nehan 涅槃 in Japanese). One of the more spectacular and eventful commemorations is at Seiryō-ji temple in Saga. There are a number of reasons why you might want to attend this particular event. On this day only, entry to the temple interior is free. It has a real … [Read more...]
Greeting the New Year in Kyoto
For the last post of 2014, let us return to a piece first written by our good friend, John Dougill in 2010. That year I followed John's advice by paying a visit to both Kurodani and Shimogamo Shrine on New Year's Eve, and so I am reposting some photos from that night too. It had been snowing quite heavily on the 31st, so Kurodani in particular was really beautiful; all dressed … [Read more...]
Kōtō-in – An Excerpt from “Deep Kyoto: Walks” by Joel Stewart
This month's extract from Deep Kyoto: Walks is taken from a very fine ramble by the artist Joel Stewart, titled "In Praise of Uro Uro". Uro uro is a Japanese expression for aimless wandering. Kōtō-in by Joel Stewart I really don't think much needs be said here about Kōtō-in, other than it's a real escape from the city, right in the city. And beside all the interesting … [Read more...]
Not Sure Which Way to Go – An Excerpt from Deep Kyoto Walks by Robert Yellin
In this extract from Deep Kyoto: Walks, Robert Yellin encourages us to seek chance and adventure along the Path of Philosophy… Not Sure Which Way to Go Let’s Get Lost on the Philosopher’s Path! ROBERT YELLIN One autumn twilight moment I was standing on a small bridge overlooking the Philosopher’s Path’s canal and saw a young couple staring at a map, eyes flittering … [Read more...]
Ghosts, Monkeys & Other Neighbours – An Excerpt from Deep Kyoto: Walks
Today I am posting a short excerpt from our ebook Deep Kyoto: Walks. In Ghosts, Monkeys & Other Neighbours, Bridget Scott meditates on her personal connection to her neighborhood on a well-worn stroll from Shisen-dō to Manshu-in… In Kyoto, the act of walking itself has taken on a new meaning for me. This awareness began over twenty years ago with my first butoh class: … [Read more...]