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Saganoyu Cafe

August 28, 2023 By Michael Lambe

日本語はこちら

If you’re in the Saga area, the cafe Saganoyu is a pleasant spot for lunch or a cup of coffee. Originally built as a public bathhouse in 1923, the building has been thoroughly renovated and was reopened as a cafe in 2006. You can still see the original tiling on the floors and the faucets along the walls.

Here’s what we had. Miu chose a cheese curry…

…which she washed down with an iced “Island milk tea” – so-named because it contains coconut milk.

And I had a peperoncino with anchovy and nanohana (rapeseed flowers) …

…with a refreshing framboise squash.

Everything was tasty and the service was good too. Saganoyu is not so cheap, but the Saga/Arashiyama area is rather touristy so cheap places are hard to find…

Saganoyu is located a short walk south of the JR Saga/Arashiyama Station. Here is a most convenient map. Check out the Saganoyu website more details and for their online shop: http://www.sagano-yu.com/
Open: 11.00 – 18.00 (Last orders: 17.30)
Telephone: 075-882-8985

This article first posted in March, 2014. Updated and reposted in August, 2023.
All text and images by Michael Lambe. All rights reserved.

Ain Soph Journey Kyoto (Formerly Matsuontoko) – Vegan Burger Cafe

July 20, 2023 By Michael Lambe

日本語はこちら

Update 2023: Matsuontoko is now known as Ain. Soph Journey Kyoto (catchy!) — but it is still a vegan restaurant serving delicious burgers, curries and kara-age!

Though there are quite a large number of vegetarian establishments in Kyoto, most of them are located in the north of the city, and the few there are in the city center tend to sell nothing that isn’t healthy and nutritious. Good vegan junk food is pretty hard to come by. There used to be a branch of Speakeasy on Shijo that did a passable veggie burger, but that closed down back in 2010. Since then our vegan brethren have been denied the delights of fast and convenient processed treats at a convenient location and forced to endure a steady diet of tofu and wholegrain rice. No more! Vegan cafe Matsuontoko Ain Soph. Journey Kyoto is here to save the day, slap bang in the center of town, with a fine array of vegan fake-meats!

So convincing are these fake-meats that one of Mewby’s friends was half-way through her “kara-age” before she realised it wasn’t chicken at all. And that was only because Mewby told her.

“Really,” Mewby told me. “You’ll be amazed.”
“Well, alright then.” I said. So I went. And here’s my order.

How good was it? Very good. The bread was actually really nice too. I was entirely satisfied. But I decided to pig out on onion rings anyway. They were nice sweet onions and non too greasy.

And they also had this lovely little cup of tofu ice-cream, cream and vegan brownies.

In short, whether you are vegan or no, if have a hankering for fast food at a reasonable price, Matsuontoko Ain Soph. Journey Kyoto is the place to go.

Ain Soph Journey Kyoto is just east of Shinkyogoku, three streets up from Shijo. Here is a map. Check the website for other items on the menu. There are a lot of choices.

Ain Soph Journey Kyoto has some slightly complicated business hours.
Normal business hours are as follows:
Open:
11:30~17:00 (Last Orders: 16:00), 18:00 ~ 20.00 (Last Entry: 18.45, Last Orders: 19.00)
But sometimes they are only open for lunch and then business hours are as follows:
Open: 10.00 ~ 16.00 (Last Orders: 15.00)
Holidays are irregular.
Tel: 075-251-1876

Original article posted February, 2013. Updated July 2023.
Text and images by Michael Lambe. All rights reserved. 

Nishin Soba at Nama-soba Tokiwa

May 3, 2022 By Michael Lambe

Tokiwa is an unassuming noodle shop in central Kyoto that serves a huge variety of perfectly average canteen-style meals. It’s also the first place that I ever tasted nishin soba. And for that reason it holds a very special place in my heart.

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Nama-soba Tokiwa Noodle Shop on Teramachi Doori. Nama-soba means “fresh soba,” so not dried or frozen, and therefore full of flavor!

I can’t remember when exactly I first entered this place, but it must have been over a decade ago, just after I had first moved to Kyoto. My Japanese reading ability wasn’t so great at the time, but I could read hiragana, and the words にしんそば (nishin soba) were very clearly written in red on the shop front sign. I didn’t know what it was, but I decided to go in and give it a try. Reader, it was a revelation. And nishin soba has become one of my favorite Japanese dishes.

nishin soba at tokiwa restaurant
A nice hot steaming bowl of nishin soba goodness

So this is nishin soba: a big slab of dried herring, marinated in mirin (cooking sake) and soy sauce, and served on a bed of fresh buckwheat noodles with some chopped green noodles. It is a simple dish, and to my mind it is a little piece of heaven in a bowl. The sweetness of the mirin contrasts nicely with the deep savory flavor of the fish, while those fresh noodles and the light broth they are served in serve as a satisfying complement. Nishin soba is in fact a specialty of Kyoto, having been invented in another noodle restaurant (Matusba over by the Minamiza theater) back in the 19th century. It’s not to everybody’s taste, but I find it quite magical.

Tokiwa restaurant interior
The interior of Tokiwa

As for the shop “Tokiwa”, the place has a real Showa era vibe going on with its simple furnishings and wall-mounted TV. At the front of the shop, it says that Tokiwa was established in Meiji 11. That’s 1878 folks – this place is historic. I believe it is now run by the 4th or 5th generation of the family that established it. This is not unusual in Kyoto, but still I find it hard not to be impressed.

With its unremarkable appearance it would be very easy to walk past this store and never even notice it is there…

You might feel a little intimidated going into a tiny local place like this, but don’t be. Just walk in and someone will ask you how many people you are and then direct you to an available table. They have English and Chinese menus if you need them, and of course you don’t have to eat nishin soba. They have all kinds of soba and udon noodle or rice dishes available and economical set meals. You can see some plastic food models in the window to give you an idea of what is available. There’s quite a variety, but I can’t really recommend any of the other dishes because I’ve never tried them. For me this is a sacred spot where I can only eat nishin soba. And having tasted something so nourishing and flavorful, why would I want anything else?

Yata-dera Temple
Tokiwa is located beside Yata-dera Temple

Tokiwa is open from 11.00 till 16.00 and closed on Wednesdays. You can find it on the east side of Teramachi just above Sanjo and right beside (the very small) Yata-dera Temple. Here is a map showing it’s location.

Text and images by Michael Lambe. All rights reserved.



monk: Light and Shadow on the Philosopher’s Path – Reflections and Recipes from a Kyoto Restaurant

May 9, 2021 By Michael Lambe

Disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links from which I will earn a commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

As this long, strange interlude continues, many of us are hankering for a trip overseas, craving fresh cultural encounters, and hungering for a taste of authentic foreign cuisines. No doubt many have Kyoto at the top of their “to visit” list once international travel resumes and feel frustrated that they cannot visit sooner. For the present though, if we are forced to simply dream of travel, perhaps we may while away some time with plans for future journeys, the people we will visit, and the food we will share.

monk

Imagine yourself, one day in the not too distant future, strolling with a friend down Kyoto’s tree-lined Philosopher’s Path, and spotting a warm, firey glow from the windows of a small path-side restaurant, you ask your companion, “What do you think? Shall we give it a try?” A new book from Phaidon, tells the story of what you will find in that restaurant, with personal reflections from its chef and a sensory feast of fine photography to help feed your dreams of Kyoto, along with a series of unique recipes to help you bridge the hungry gap.

monk: Light and Shadow on the Philosopher’s Path tells the intimate story of monk, a 14-seat restaurant tucked away on a corner of Kyoto’s Philosopher’s Path, where chef Yoshihiro Imai serves up an ever-changing menu of fresh vegetables and Kyoto-style pizza from his wood-fired oven. Imai opened his restaurant in 2015, and quickly won renown for his innovative spin on Japanese cuisine, with his focus on pizza as a simple dish that is easily shared, and which also provides a versatile canvas on which to present a rich variety of local ingredients. The source of those ingredients is also crucial to the restaurant’s success. As Imai writes on his website, “Every morning I visit farms tucked in the mountains of Ohara and visit markets around Kyoto to collect and gather fresh ingredients. Breathing in the wind, I absorb the earth’s energies which I transport to the kitchen, the dishes, and our restaurant.” For Imai, cooking with fire is also central to bringing out the simple flavors of his ingredients and he states that “roasting vegetables in a wood-fired oven is the most delicious possible way to eat them.”

Fiddlehead fern and koshiabura pizza

Imai doesn’t just serve pizza of course. That is simply the the climax of a 7-course omakase-style meal (decided by the chef) which heavily emphasizes seasonal vegetables, foraged mushrooms, nuts, and herbs, and game meat such as duck, venison, or wild boar. The main dish is your choice from that day’s pizza options which, depending on the season, may be topped with wildflowers, butterbur, or fiddlehead ferns.

Yoshihiro Imai at work

In his book, Imai explains through a series of personal essays how his “primitive” style of cooking with fire, and his “small is beautiful” philosophy is inspired both by Japanese culture and his experiences working at restaurants around the world. The book takes you on a journey through the seasons, with stories of the farmers, fishermen, and artisans who form part of the restaurant’s supply-chain. He also relates how monk has managed to survive the current pandemic, by offering takeout meals and delivery services, that have not only kept his own business afloat and helped support his suppliers, but also enabled him to forge closer bonds with his local community. “It isn’t just the cooking that sustains me,” writes Imai, “but the full monk experience of sharing space with my guests. Everything from the conversations about the ingredients and the farmers to the sight of the burning firewood; the flowers, the music. This period has taught me that it’s the shared feeling of spending time with my guests itself that keeps me nourished.”

Autumn viewed from the restaurant window.

As can be expected from Phaidon, this book is a handsome hardback volume, fully illustrated throughout with color photographs from Yuka Yanazume. And at the end of the book Imai has provided a generous selection of 75 recipes which you can try yourself. Monk: Light and Shadow on the Philosopher’s Path is available from Amazon.com, Amazon.co.jp, and Amazon.co.uk.

All images by Yuka Yanazume. Text by Michael Lambe. All rights reserved.



Speak Easy – American Style Diner by Shugakuin Station

June 16, 2017 By Michael Lambe

Speak Easy is an American style diner up by Shugakuin Station which is famous for its great range of burgers, breakfasts, and Mexican style food. There used to be another branch of this shop in the town center that Mewby and I would regularly frequent back when we lived in that area. I was a big fan of their vegetarian gluten burgers and their crispy onion rings and I was most disappointed when that branch closed down. Sometimes you just get a hankering for quality junk food, and my hankering was thwarted. And Shugakuin is just a little bit out of the way for us these days. However, we recently booked a tour of the Shugakuin Imperial Villa, and naturally decided we would have lunch at the original Speak Easy afterwards. You can imagine how much I was looking forward to my Speak Easy lunch. As we wandered the stately gardens, admiring ponds and tea houses, all I could think of was of my long-awaited reunion with a good-old Speak Easy gluten burger with pickles and fries and ketchup and of course a side order of those fantastic onion rings.

Well established: Speak Easy has been open since 1987.

The diner itself is easy enough to find being within shouting distance of the station, and having the Stars and Stripes hanging up outside is certainly a giveaway. Inside the place is decorated with a clutter of retro Americana, and two TV screens have CNN on permanent broadcast. My attention was on the menu however, and I was happy to see that my old friend the gluten burger was still listed on there, along with cheese burgers, chilli burgers, teriyaki burgers, chicken teriyaki burgers, Kyoto burgers (?), and “special burgers” which come with egg, avocado and bacon. They also have a fine array of sandwiches, pizzas, and Mexican options such as tacos, nachos, and enchiladas. Faced with such choice, what to do?

“I’ll have a gluten burger, please.”

They were out of gluten burgers.

I put a brave face on this bitterly disappointing turn of events, and ordered a fish burger instead. It was a perfectly decent fish burger, but obviously it couldn’t make up for my deep sense of loss. In terms of size it wasn’t really up to American standards either.

A perfectly decent Speak Easy fish burger.

Mewby had a cheese burger with extra egg and she described it as perfectly adequate.

Mewby’s cheese burger with extra egg.

You can choose fries or onion rings with your burger. We went for fries but ordered a small side order of onion rings too. Next time I would order large because a small serving really is quite small.

An Olympic order of exactly 5 rings.

Speak Easy are also well known for their American breakfasts with bacon, eggs, pancakes, and hash browns. It’s a good spot for a quick bite to eat if you are in that neighborhood, but I think next time I go, I’ll call ahead and ask them to check their fridge for gluten burgers. It’s been too long.

Speak Easy is located on the west side of Shugakuin Station. Here is a MAP of the location.
Open:9.00 – 26.00
Closed:Thursdays
Tel: 075-781-2110

Deep Nara #2 – Restaurant & Cafe Bambuno

December 11, 2014 By Michael Lambe

After visiting the Kojiki Exhibition in Nara last month, Mewby and I wandered into the Nara-machi area in search of a place to eat. A warm glow from Restaurant Bambuno caught my eye, we studied the menu, we liked what we saw, and so we plumped for Italian that night. IMG_7266I’m glad we did. The food was great and service very friendly. I’m happy to recommend this little restaurant to anyone visiting Nara. Here’s what we had:

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Oysters Ajillo
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Salmon Marinated with rock salt, lemon & olive oil.
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Margherita: fresh tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and basil
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Pasta Napolitana; tuna, mushrooms, tomato sauce
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Satsuma-imo (sweet potato) tiramisu

Everything we ate was really great, but that sweet potato tiramisu was a real discovery. When you experiment with a classic recipe things can go horribly wrong, but this time the combination worked a treat. It was the perfect end to a lovely meal.

Here are the restaurant details:

IMG_0326 (Medium)Opening Hours:
Lunch: 11:30〜14:00
Cafe Time: 15:00〜17:00
Dinner: 18:00〜22:00
Closed on Tuesdays

Tel: 0742-27-0072
Address: 〒 630-8734
奈良県奈良市今御門22
Here is a MAP.
Site: http://bambuno.eek.jp/

See also: Deep Nara #1: Kojiki Exhibition

Yak & Yeti – Nepalese Curry in Kyoto

June 19, 2014 By Michael Lambe

Yak and Yeti is a restaurant we go back to time and time again for two reasons. One is the super friendly staff who never fail to put a smile on our faces. And the other is their legendary Vegetable Phuraula, Nepali style spicy vegetable tempura. It’s amazing. This restaurant is super popular with vegetarians for the range of tasty vegan options they have on their menu but you don’t have to be vegan to enjoy them. They are soooo good. And of course they have plenty of carnivorous options too. We usually share one curry and a naan bread and get a range of their fantastic appetizers. Here’s what we had last time.

 

Generally, they have two Nepali beers available, Mustang, which has a subtle but musky flavor, and Nepali Ice which is crisper and lighter on the tongue. The spicy papadums were a special treat from the restaurant, and went so nicely with that first beer. [Read more…]

Honke Owariya with Sean Lotman

June 16, 2014 By Michael Lambe

2014-06-15 15.25.25 (Medium)
On Sunday Mewby and I had the pleasure of lunch with writer/photographer Sean Lotman. Sean’s wife manages the Honke Owariya soba noodle business, a family company which is pretty famous in Kyoto.  The business actually dates from 1465, though they “only” started making noodles Sean told me about 300 or 400 years ago, as they were originally a confectionary business.  They still make confectionary but it is the noodles that have made it famous. We met up with Sean at the main branch of Honke Owariya, a delightful old traditional Kyoto building for a stimulating lunch of hearty food and good conversation in beautiful surrounds. [Read more…]

All New Falafel Garden

May 29, 2014 By Michael Lambe

IMG_6228 (Medium)
A couple of weeks ago we went to check out the new location for Falafel Garden. A short walk north of Demachiyanagi on Kawabata, this new shop opened on April 28th. The old Falafel Garden was always a popular spot, but I think I like this new one even more. It’s bigger, more comfortable, they have a nice big garden out the back and if you are lucky you can snag a balcony seat upstairs and sit outside in the cool breeze watching those dinky little toy-like trains of the Eiden line roll by.

balcony
And the food of course is as good as ever. Mewby ordered a double sandwich set of chicken kebab and falafel (1290 yen).

IMG_6222 (Medium)
Whereas I went for a simple large falafel sandwich (1150 yen). Did we get fries with that (100 yen)? Yes, we did! It was great, but I think in retrospect, my eyes were bigger than my tummy and a medium sized sandwich would have sufficed.

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So to summarize, the new Falafel Garden is just as good as the old one, if not better, and those healthy, nutritious, golden balls of goodness are just as tasty as before. Keep this fine institution going and give them some of your custom at the location below!
Open: Everyday 11:00 am ~ 21:30 (last orders) ~ 22:00 (closes)
The 2nd floor is non-smoking.
Tel: 075-712-1856

FG_map2014_2

Kamo’s All You Can Eat Veggie Buffet

March 20, 2014 By Michael Lambe

Now that Obanzai’s organic buffet is closing, it is good to know that there are alternatives. Kamo serves up all organic locally grown vegetables in all kinds of tasty combinations. They take pride in the fact their vegetables are 都野菜 or “Miyako vegetables” which means they are truly local. Apparently the famed label 京野菜 – “Kyo yasai” does not always guarantee that the veggies actually come from Kyoto! Mewby and I went there a couple of weeks ago for lunch and thought it was pretty good value. Here’s Mewby’s lunch:

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Here’s mine:

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As you can see there is plenty of variety. Here are the details:
Morning light meal buffet(7:00 ~ 10:00): ¥480 (includes a soft drink)
Lunch-time buffet (11:00 ~ 16:00): ¥880 (when full they have a one hour limit)
Dinner-time buffet (17:00 ~ 23:00): ¥1,300 (when full they have an 80 minute limit)
Limitless soft drinks: ¥300
All You Can Drink with alcohol: ¥950

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Location: On the south-east corner of Higashinotoin and Ayanokouji. One block east of Karasuma and one block south of Shijo. Here is a MAP.
Tel: 075-351-2732
Website: http://nasukamo.net

Bellota Concha on Tominokoji

February 6, 2014 By Michael Lambe

Bellota Concha is a Spanish style restaurant specialising in seafood fresh from the market. Mewby and I ate there once last year and enjoyed it, so I thought it would be a nice spot to celebrate our anniversary.

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They have two floors, so if you are upstairs you get one of these funky bells to call for service. We started our meal with a white asparagus and anchovy salad…

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Then a bowl of steamed mussels in white wine. The bread here is also very good: soft, white and chewy.

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Now for paella. Most people would probably just order one medium sized paella and be satisfied, but I’m greedy so I ordered two small ones. One had oysters and spring onions:

IMG_7625 (Medium)And the other was a seafood assortment:

IMG_7626 (Medium)
We finished off with crema catalana and Torta de Santiago (a kind of almond pie).

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IMG_7623 (Medium)Everything was splendid and tasted great! I spent just under 10,000 yen that night, but I did order a lot of food, so I imagine you could get away with a 7,000 yen bill and have plenty to eat and drink. Anyway, Bellota has good food, good service and a nice atmosphere. If you have a special occasion coming up then I recommend it.

IMG_7637 (Medium)Bellota Concha is just south of Shijo on the west side of Tominokoji. There is a map at the bottom of this page: http://www.bellota.jp/tominokoji/ There are also other Bellota branches throughout Kyoto, which you can find on their website.

TEL: 075-351-5829
Open every day for lunch: 11:30〜15:00 (last orders at 14:30)
Open every day for dinner: 17:00〜24:00 (last orders at 23:00)

Chakra Indian Restaurant

February 3, 2014 By Michael Lambe

We found another great curry place! Mewby and I stumbled across Chakra last night while out for an evening stroll, and although we hadn’t intended to eat out, we were tempted in at the thought of Bengal curry goodness…
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There are a lot of choices on the menu, and everything seems pretty reasonably priced. There are also a lot of vegetarian/vegan options: 8 different veggie curries to choose from! Mewby being carnivorous chose a chicken korma (1,200 yen):

chicken korma

And I had a Shaee vegetable korma (1100 yen). Both of our meals were delicious.

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The sweet naan (500 yen) we ordered to accompany our meals was the star attraction though. Packed with dried fruits and coconut, we both loved it.

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Chakra is on the corner of Gojo and Higashioji at the bottom of the Kiyomizu slope – an area that basically shuts down in the evenings, so I think this restaurant gets most of its business at lunchtime. If you go in the evening, it’s nice and quiet, and the background ethnic music is gentle on ears the too. Bento lunch boxes (700 yen) and takeaway meals are also available. All in all, we were very happy with our Chakra experience and will definitely be back to try more items on the menu.

godfather
Godfather & Cobra Indian beers available!
Open: Monday – Sunday: 11:00 – 22:00
TEL:  075-525-1260
Email: ashishich@hotmail.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/chakra.kyoto
Location: On the west side of Higashioji Street just north of Gojo at the bottom of Gojozaka. The Gojo Zaka bus stop is right outside. Here is a MAP.

See also:
Namaste Taj Mahal
Kerala
Thilaga

Gelato @ Ristorante Strada, Kyoto

June 8, 2013 By Michael Lambe

IMG_5722 (Medium)

Rum raisin & teaHere’s a cool tip for the summer. Ristorante Strada has a gelato stand on Oike Street – and every flavour is intense. There are ten ever changing flavours to choose from at 200 yen a scoop. Mewby is a big fan of the rum raisin, but for me it’s a toss up between the refreshing lemon or the juicy blueberry. Not that it’s a problem if you order a double!Buono gelato
You can find Strada between Tominokoji and Yanaginobanba on the north side of Oike. I’ve never had a meal there, but if the ice creams are anything to go by, it’s certainly worth a try. Here is a map & opening hours.

Baird Beer & Oysters at Dining Room You

February 19, 2013 By Michael Lambe

oysters and baird beer
This picture by Robert Yellin

Many thanks to Robert Yellin for introducing us to Dining Room You, earlier this month. Hearing that they had both oysters and Baird beer there I was eager to give the place a try. We found it casual, and relaxed with a tiny garden at the back. Snow was gently falling to set the mood.
Here’s Robert in his element with a IMG_5007bottle of Angry Boy Brown Ale. Realizing that the owners of You were keen to compliment their food with the very best nihonshu, Robert felt that something was missing from the menu, and was good enough to introduce them to Baird Beer. It’s a shame to drink cheap beer when you are eating good food. Now they have the very best craft brews and all are served in these lovely ceramic cups.

oysters (Medium)
This picture by Chihiro Yadokoro

 

We weren’t just there for the beer though, but for the oysters. Robert ordered five right off the bat – raw with just a slice of lemon. I have to agree with Robert that this is the best way to eat them. But for those who can’t stomach them raw, there are plenty of options: steamed in sake, fried, in tempura… So many tantalizing alternatives to try!

Here’s two more with yuzu ponzu.

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Robert is also keen to recommend the Jikon nihonshu. He brings a little bag of sake cups with him when he goes drinking, as he feels it’s a shame to drink good sake out of mass-produced cups. He’s right too. The flavor of the nihonshu is subtly altered by the shape and texture of each individual hand-crafted cup. You are not simply drinking sake, you are experiencing it through the medium of a craftsman’s art.

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Oysters are a seasonal dish and in season now, so if you want to try them you’d best get yourself up to You pretty soon. But it’s not all oysters there of course. We had steamed clams, grilled broad beans, gyoza, and saba no kizushi (mackerel marinated in mackerel). And how better to finish the meal than with a dish of macha tea-flavored chocolate ice-cream?

Great food, great beers, great nihonshu… and most importantly great company. That’s the good life for you. We’ll definitely be going back.

map to YOUDining Room You is on the north side of Shimochoja Dori, east of Horikawa, next to a Family Mart convenience store. Here is a map from Bing.
Opening hours: 17:30 – 00:00
Closed on Tuesdays.
Tel: 075-414-0166

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