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  • 日本語

Snow on Shimogamo Shrine, Kyoto

January 4, 2015 By Michael Lambe Leave a Comment

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This picture by Mewby.

The past couple of days in Kyoto have seen the city’s heaviest snowfall in over 50 years – which of course makes for a lot of splendid photo opportunities. One of my essential visits each January is to Shimogamo Shrine, a shrine older than the city itself and my personal favorite. I make a point of coming here for hatsumōde (初詣 – a first shrine visit) every year. Here are some pictures from today’s visit. Covered in its white mantle the north of Kyoto was breathtaking!

This was the view upon arrival at Demachiyanagi.
This was the view upon arrival at Demachiyanagi.
We crossed the river and entered the woods of Tadasu no Mori.  It is the last remnant of a primeval forest which is said to have never been cut or burned down.
We crossed the river and entered the woods of Tadasu no Mori. It is the last remnant of a primeval forest which is said to have never been cut or burned down.
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“Tadasu no Mori” means “forest of correction”. In Heian times nobles would meet here to settle disputes as it was said to be a place where you could not tell a lie.
Near the southern entrance of the forest is a small sub-shrine called Kawai Jinja.
Near the southern entrance of the forest is a small sub-shrine called Kawai Jinja.
At Kawai Jinja there is a reconstruction of Kamo no Chomei's hut. Kamo no Chomei was a 12th century poet and hermit and the author of the very wonderful Hōjōki - “An Account from a Hut Ten-Foot Square”.
At Kawai Jinja there is a reconstruction of Kamo no Chomei’s hut. Kamo no Chomei was a 12th century poet and hermit and the author of the very wonderful Hōjōki – “An Account from a Hut Ten-Foot Square”.
Kamo no Chomei's original hut was up in the mountains. Can you imagine how cold he would have been in winter!
Kamo no Chomei’s original hut was up in the mountains. Can you imagine how cold he would have been in winter!
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This shell was bestowed upon the shrine by the emperor on the occasion of Japan’s great victory in the Russo-Japanese war of 1904-5. This together with a huge hi-no-maru flag hanging proudly at the entrance, and the instruction at the shrine altar to pray for the emperor, gave me the impression this shrine is firmly in the nationalist camp.
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At New Year’s there are always plenty of food stalls set up in the Tadasu no Mori woods that surround the shrine, but it is far less crowded (and the food is cheaper) than the more popular Fushimi Inari Taisha.
The entrance to Shimogamo Shrine proper.
The entrance to Shimogamo Shrine proper.
The shimenawa ropes that decorate this rock siginify that it is venerated as the dwelling place of kami - the Shinto gods.
The shimenawa ropes that decorate this rock siginify that it is venerated as the dwelling place of kami – the Shinto gods.
At the entrance a blazing fire warms people up.
At the entrance a blazing fire warms people up.
Shimogamo Jinja is  one of the oldest shrines in Japan and is one of the seventeen Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto which have been designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
Shimogamo Jinja is one of the oldest shrines in Japan and is one of the seventeen Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto which have been designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
The main altars had long queues so we went to a small side altar to say our New Year's prayers...
The main altars had long queues so we went to a small side altar to say our New Year’s prayers…
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Shimogamo Jinja is said to date from the 6th century; older even than Kyoto itself.
To greet the new year, the shrine always displays a wonderful picture of the current year's zodiac animal.
To greet the new year, the shrine always displays a wonderful picture of the current year’s zodiac animal.

Happy New Year to all and best wishes for 2015 – the Year of the Sheep!

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You can find the Shimogamo Shrine complex a hop, skip and a jump over the Kamo river to the west of Demachiyanagi Sation. Here is a map of its location.

Update – January 6th: We actually bumped into John Dougill at the entrance to Shimogamo and his pictures from his visit are now up on Green Shinto.

See also: Kamo no Chomei’s Hojoki – “An Account from a Hut Ten-Foot Square”

Filed Under: Shrines

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