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Hiking the Rice Buyers’ Way

December 16, 2014 By Michael Lambe

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Into the woods!

Two of the most rewarding activities I have been involved in during my time in Kyoto, are the events organized by the Hailstone Haiku Circle, and the conservation activities of People Together for Mt. Ogura (PTO). Stephen Gill is a primary organizer of both organizations, and so some of their activites tend to merge. So it was that on October 26th Mewby and I took part in a joint Hailstone/PTO hike along the Rice Buyers’ Way between Mizuo and Saga, in Ukyo-ku, Kyoto.

Says Stephen,

The Komekai no Michi 米買の道 was the route taken by citizens of Heian-kyo and their horses and oxen when they went off to buy cheaper, more delicious rice from Mizuo, Koshihata and the province of Tamba beyond. The journey involved climbing at least two passes (there is a third on the way to Koshihata/Kameoka). With an early start and a brisk pace, the buyer’s mission could possibly have been accomplished in a single strenuous day… Few people pass this way nowadays, but the trail is still pretty good…

However, unlike the rice buyers, we would walk in only one direction and not there and back again. Meeting up at Hozukyo station at 9am, we boarded a mini-bus for Mizuo. From here we would hike back to Kyoto. Here are some pictures from our walk.

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The view from Mizuo. This little mountain village was once the home of the Emperor Seiwa (清和天皇, Seiwa-tennō, 850–878) and it was here he passed away.
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Stephen and Mewby tree hugging at Enkaku-ji, Mizuo.
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Here Mewby inspired me. “Look at the spider web shining! Doesn’t it look just like a CD!” she said. And, “Did you know that in experiments spiders change the shape of a web according to the music they are played?”

to what tune
does the spider spin
this disc that snares the light?

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On our way…
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Much of the route is sign-posted.
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Stephen Gill – upstream
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東の田んぼ跡 – The east rice field ruins. Hard to believe this was once farmland.
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Another source of inspiration, this fungus is called サルノコシカケ or Monkey’s seat. Surprisingly it can actually take quite a bit of weight.

a fungal seat –
each in turn, we try to prove
we are monkeys

And Okiharu Maeda’s translation:

座れるか?
サルノコシカケ
人が猿か

Our troop
Our troop
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大岩 – The big rock
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Climbing 大岩
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Scrambling
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Kunugi is a type of oak, but there was no kunugi to be seen here. Maeda-san explained that there must have been one in times past, that was used as a landmark to help people find the way…

for the ghost of the tree,
that pointed the way,
now stands a simple sign

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Mr. Gill in reflective mood
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「アメンボ!」 says Mewby 「見て!」


water strider –
back and forth he stakes a claim:
this rock is mine

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At Kiyotaki
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The Hozu River Gorge
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Closer

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One of PTO’s main activities is collecting rubbish that has been illegally dumped on Mount Ogura. Maeda-san and Stephen were scouting out an area in need of work along the way…

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The return to Saga

Having returned to Saga, those that still had energy visited a Balinese eatery and there over our drinks and just desserts, we shared our haiku. You can read some haiku from the other walkers here: Of Michio, Toshi and the Village of Mizuo

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A reward at journey’s end.

Many thanks to Stephen Gill for organizing a very enjoyable day.

If you would like to join in the activities of the Hailstone Haiku Circle or PTO then please visit the websites below.

https://hailhaiku.wordpress.com/
http://www.ptogura.org/ep.html

Ginko-no-renga in Iwakura

March 19, 2011 By Michael Lambe

Akito Mori contemplates the garden at Jisso-in and composes his verses.

On March 12th I joined the Hailstone Haiku Circle for their Ginko-no-renga event (a poetry composition stroll), on this occasion in Iwakura. Originally the linked verse, or renga, was meant to begin with a hokku (starting verse) that Buson had written in Iwakura.

遅き日や雉の下り居る橋の上

The days grow longer –
A pheasant has fluttered down
Onto the bridge.

However, the Tohoku disaster had occurred just the day before and was naturally very fresh in all our minds. It was only natural that our collaborative verse  would reflect to some degree the traumatic events in the north. For this reason, our sabaki (捌き – or coordinators), Stephen Gill and Keiko Yurugi, had chosen another verse by Buson that seemed absolutely perfect.

The day grows longer –
echoes are heard
in a corner of Kyoto…..

This was the first time I had joined one of these events so I was a little concerned that I would fail to be inspired and unable to contribute. However, as we strolled around Iwakura, the Jisso-in temple and the Iwakura shrine I found myself taking lots of notes on odd scraps of paper. Later, back at Mr. & Mrs. Higashinaka’s house we took tea and sat around to compose our verse. The event was easy going and fun and I was both surprised and delighted that a verse I had written was chosen to become part of the collaborative effort. It was also fascinating to see how our sabaki chose each verse in order to somehow continue the mood of the renga and yet keep it moving and developing. I definitely want to take part in one of these events again.

Here is how the poem begins (can you guess which of the first six verses is mine?):

Echoes

The day grows longer –
echoes are heard
in a corner of Kyoto….. (Buson)

Between two gardens
abandoned tiles

Calm corridor –
one step, one prayer
white plum blooming beyond

Struck dumb
by the presence of stones

Again and again
from far across the still pond
one black wave

The silent hills look on
bathed in watery sun

Click here to continue reading this poem.
You can see more photographs from the event below. Please visit the Hailstone Haiku Circle website to find out more about their events and publications.

Of Related Interest:
Irish Haiku!
One Hundred Poets on Mount Ogura, One Poem Each
Introducing Keiji Minato
Songs and Stories of the Kojiki retold by Yoko Danno
Japan International Poetry Society

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