Deep Kyoto

good places - good people

Ain Soph Journey Kyoto (Formerly Matsuontoko) – Vegan Burger Cafe

By

日本語はこちら

Update 2023: Matsuontoko is now known as Ain. Soph Journey Kyoto (catchy!) — but it is still a vegan restaurant serving delicious burgers, curries and kara-age!

Though there are quite a large number of vegetarian establishments in Kyoto, most of them are located in the north of the city, and the few there are in the city center tend to sell nothing that isn’t healthy and nutritious. Good vegan junk food is pretty hard to come by. There used to be a branch of Speakeasy on Shijo that did a passable veggie burger, but that closed down back in 2010. Since then our vegan brethren have been denied the delights of fast and convenient processed treats at a convenient location and forced to endure a steady diet of tofu and wholegrain rice. No more! Vegan cafe Matsuontoko Ain Soph. Journey Kyoto is here to save the day, slap bang in the center of town, with a fine array of vegan fake-meats!

So convincing are these fake-meats that one of Mewby’s friends was half-way through her “kara-age” before she realised it wasn’t chicken at all. And that was only because Mewby told her.

“Really,” Mewby told me. “You’ll be amazed.”
“Well, alright then.” I said. So I went. And here’s my order.

How good was it? Very good. The bread was actually really nice too. I was entirely satisfied. But I decided to pig out on onion rings anyway. They were nice sweet onions and non too greasy.

And they also had this lovely little cup of tofu ice-cream, cream and vegan brownies.

In short, whether you are vegan or no, if have a hankering for fast food at a reasonable price, Matsuontoko Ain Soph. Journey Kyoto is the place to go.

Ain Soph Journey Kyoto is just east of Shinkyogoku, three streets up from Shijo. Here is a map. Check the website for other items on the menu. There are a lot of choices.

Ain Soph Journey Kyoto has some slightly complicated business hours.
Normal business hours are as follows:
Open: 11:30～17:00 (Last Orders: 16:00), 18:00 ~ 20.00 (Last Entry: 18.45, Last Orders: 19.00)
But sometimes they are only open for lunch and then business hours are as follows:
Open: 10.00 ~ 16.00 (Last Orders: 15.00)
Holidays are irregular.
Tel: 075-251-1876

Original article posted February, 2013. Updated July 2023.
Text and images by Michael Lambe. All rights reserved. 

All New Falafel Garden

By

IMG_6228 (Medium)
A couple of weeks ago we went to check out the new location for Falafel Garden. A short walk north of Demachiyanagi on Kawabata, this new shop opened on April 28th. The old Falafel Garden was always a popular spot, but I think I like this new one even more. It’s bigger, more comfortable, they have a nice big garden out the back and if you are lucky you can snag a balcony seat upstairs and sit outside in the cool breeze watching those dinky little toy-like trains of the Eiden line roll by.

balcony
And the food of course is as good as ever. Mewby ordered a double sandwich set of chicken kebab and falafel (1290 yen).

IMG_6222 (Medium)
Whereas I went for a simple large falafel sandwich (1150 yen). Did we get fries with that (100 yen)? Yes, we did! It was great, but I think in retrospect, my eyes were bigger than my tummy and a medium sized sandwich would have sufficed.

IMG_6225 (Medium)
So to summarize, the new Falafel Garden is just as good as the old one, if not better, and those healthy, nutritious, golden balls of goodness are just as tasty as before. Keep this fine institution going and give them some of your custom at the location below!
Open: Everyday 11:00 am ~ 21:30 (last orders) ~ 22:00 (closes)
The 2nd floor is non-smoking.
Tel: 075-712-1856

FG_map2014_2

Kamo’s All You Can Eat Veggie Buffet

By

Now that Obanzai’s organic buffet is closing, it is good to know that there are alternatives. Kamo serves up all organic locally grown vegetables in all kinds of tasty combinations. They take pride in the fact their vegetables are 都野菜 or “Miyako vegetables” which means they are truly local. Apparently the famed label 京野菜 – “Kyo yasai” does not always guarantee that the veggies actually come from Kyoto! Mewby and I went there a couple of weeks ago for lunch and thought it was pretty good value. Here’s Mewby’s lunch:

IMG_7926 (Medium)

Here’s mine:

IMG_7927 (Medium)

As you can see there is plenty of variety. Here are the details:
Morning light meal buffet(7:00 ～ 10:00): ￥480 (includes a soft drink)
Lunch-time buffet (11:00 ～ 16:00): ￥880 （when full they have a one hour limit）
Dinner-time buffet (17:00 ～ 23:00): ￥1,300 （when full they have an 80 minute limit）
Limitless soft drinks: ￥300
All You Can Drink with alcohol: ￥950

IMG_7933v2

Location: On the south-east corner of Higashinotoin and Ayanokouji. One block east of Karasuma and one block south of Shijo. Here is a MAP.
Tel: 075-351-2732
Website: http://nasukamo.net

On Herbs, Serendipity & Fair Trade in Kyoto

By

Za'AtarZa’Atar is an Arabic spice mix “made from mixing dried za’atar leaves together with varying combinations of other spices such as sesame seeds, thyme, marjoram, sumac and more.” We bought a jar at the IDRO Japan charity sale last year, and then found ourselves wondering what to do with it. I can’t remember who donated it, but they suggested we mix it with olive oil and use it as a dip. We duly tried that and found ourselves unimpressed. But then Mewby hit on the idea of making savory bread with it, in one of these babies (see below)- and a new taste sensation was born!

If you don’t have one of these home bakeries – you should get one! They are awesome and so easy to use – but that’s by the by. Savory bread with Za’Atar mix was so delicious that by this weekend we had used up our jar and were wondering where we could get another. We knew some of the Fair Trade stores in Kyoto might have it but after calling a couple of the more central ones we had had no luck… Maybe we would have to order it online? Then yesterday, by pure chance when wandering up Uraderamachi, we stumbled across the Sisam Fair Trade store – and they had it! Now that’s lucky!

Sisam

Now let’s make some more of that highly addictive Za’atar bread!

Useful Links

Sisam is a chain of stores committed to supporting developing countries, traditional handicrafts and the environment through the sale of fair trade products. They sell a wide range of ethnic and interior goods I have yet to explore. Uraderamachi is that oft overlooked passage between Shinkyogoku and Kawaramachi. The Sisam store is located south of Round One’s back entrance. Here is a map. They moved there from Rokkaku Street about a year ago I believe. They also have their main store on the north side of Imadegawa a short walk east of Hyakumanben. And here is a map for that.

Za’atar is produced by Sindyanna of Galilee: a non-profit organization, led by women, and promoting Palestinian fair-trade products. Their goods are distributed in Japan by Palestine Olive. Other distributors world-wide are listed here: LINK.

Woodnote

By

I had my supper at Woodnote last night; a big plate of sarnies and two bottles of Guinness. And they were tasty. I really like this place. There are a lot of bars and cafes in Kyoto that are dedicated to a particular kind of music; jazz, soul, rock or blues… and finding these places always gives me a real kick. But Woodnote is something else. It’s a “99.9%” (says the owner) organic cafe, a gallery (yes, you may rent the walls for ￥1000 an hour), and a live Irish music venue (sessions every Monday!). Also Shibutani-san (the Master) does very good sandwiches (￥550 and no meat!). Oh, and if you want to learn more about all those big crazy birds you regularly see wheeling over or wading in the Kamogawa, they have a bird-watching club you can join too.
What Woodnote is perhaps best known for is Irish music and the Master himself plays the fiddle. I asked him how he first got into Irish music. He told me, gesturing at all the vinyl records behind him, that throughout his youth he had always had a big thing for bluegrass. Then later when he discovered the roots of bluegrass, he naturally took a shine to Irish music. How he got into playing music goes like this: a customer brought back a tin whistle as a souvenir from Ireland. He teaches himself to play it and plays it for about two years. Then one day he is cycling by an antiques store and he spies a fiddle. It’s in good condition but the price is a mere ￥18,000. Well, that’s fate, isn’t it?  He bought it and taught himself to play (purely by ear mind you). And here’s how he sounds ten years later:

Now, the master will say bashfully that he is 下手, or “poor” at playing. But I think it’s wonderful he can play like that when he only started in his 40s and he never had a teacher! But then, says the Master, everyone who plays here learned that way.

As mentioned before, every Monday evening there is an Irish music session here, and on the 23rd of this month (Sunday) there will be a live performance of musicians from all over Kansai from 2:00 till 5:00 pm followed by another session later that evening. To find Woodnote, go east on Kitaoji Dori untill you reach the Eizan dentetsu line and then turn left onto Takahara Dori. Woodnote is just a little ways up there on the right. Or you can walk south for about 10 minutes from Ichijoji Station. Here is a map.
Opening hours: 12:30 – 23:00 (closed on Tuesdays). Tel:075-722-9302

November 24th Update: I have posted two videos from the above mentioned session on my journal here.

Hale ~晴~

By

Hidden away in the heart of the bustling market on Nishiki Dori is a tiny little alleyway that leads to Hale. This is a fully organic and vegan restaurant, specialising in seasonal dishes, yuba tofu and Kyoto’s famously distinctive vegetables. For lunch you can have a ￥1000 set or the “Special Lunch” for ￥1800. I settled for the ￥１０００ lunch which you can see amid the pictures below and which was more than ample enough for me.

Even if you are not vegetarian, Hale is worth a visit for its traditional cuisine or just to spend a pleasant hour or so in a peaceful old machiya house quietly contemplating the central garden. A wide range of beverages are also available, coffees, teas, soy drinks, juices, beers and shochu and even something made of dandelions – but I didn’t go for that. To find it walk along Nishiki Dori between the Fuyacho and Tominokoji streets and look out for that little alleyway on the north side of the market. Here is a most helpful map. It might be worth booking ahead on weekends as Hale is both small and popular.
Opening hours: Monday & Wednesday ~ 11:30 – 18:00 / Wednesday – Sunday ~ 11:30 – 14:30 and 16:00 – 21:00. (Closed on Tuesdays).
Tel: 075-231-2516

Mole

By

On Gokomachi Dori, just a little north of Oike Dori and just removed from the hubbub of the city, is a little corner of peace-of-mind: the ambient cafe Mole. The entrance is wreathed in greenery and looks for all the world like a flower shop. Enter and be greeted by the sound of chimes. Everything here; the plants, the decor, the music and the softly spoken staff, all are gentle on the eye and ear.

They have a tasty menu too:

DRINKS:

Hot Coffee: ￥500 Cafe Latte (single): ￥550 (double): ￥650
American Coffee: ￥500 Cafe Mocha: ￥650
Ice Coffee: ￥500 Caramel Latte: ￥650
Espresso: ￥500

Earl Grey / Assam / Darjeeling / Chai (Hot/Ice): ￥500

Cocoa: ￥550 Hot Cinnamon Chocolate: ￥650 Maccha (Green Tea) Milk: ￥650

Banana Shake: ￥650 Banana Espresso: ￥750 Orange Juice: ￥500
Ebisu Draft Beer: ￥500

FOOD:

Curries: Keema Matar / Chickpea / Cashew & Walnut (all come with salad): ￥700
Fried Whole Grain Rice (with soup & salad): ￥700
Sandwiches (with home-baked bread), choose two fillings from below for ￥700
Avocado, lettuce & tomato / Bacon, lettuce & tomato / Egg & Cream Cheese / Humous, lettuce & tomato
Home-baked Bagel with Cream Cheese and Maple Syrup: ￥500
Vegetable Soup and Home-baked Bread: ￥600
Home-baked Cakes (various): ￥400
Fried Banana Ice-cream: ￥600

As you can see, this kind of variety on the menu bears repeated visits. Most of the food uses organic ingredients and there are plenty of vegetarian options to boot. Here are some pictures of the delightful interior to feast your eyes on. Click through to flickr for a better look.

As I wrote above, Mole is on Gokomachi, just a little north of Oike, on your right. Look out for a mass of green. There is a map on this page if you get lost.

See also:
Cafe Gospel
Cafe Mo-an

In Search of… Natural Food

By

Here is a short list of locations where you can get hold of natural food supplies and other earth friendly products while in Kyoto. It is far from exhaustive I’m sure, so if you know of any other places you think should be up here, write and tell me in the comments box below, or send me a mail at luain37@yahoo.co.jp.

Donguri is a small shop on Kitaoji that is packed full of goodies. In addition to natural foods and health products they also sell an array of meat substitutes. This “Daizu Marugoto Meat Slice” is made from soyabeans and is a good source of protein for our vegetarian bretheren. Just soak in water before adding it to your meal. You can also buy Tempeh here, a very versatile meat substitute that goes very well with a glass of beer.

To find Donguri go north on Higashioji Dori, turn right onto Kitaoji and it is on your right before you get to the railway tracks. Click here for a map.
Open from 10:00 am – 19:00 pm
Closed on Sundays.
TEL:075-712-0274

Help is a large supermarket with everything you could want from a normal supermarket, except it’s all natural and they have an excellent recycling system for all their waste. They also stock the “Daizu Marugoto Meat” pictured above. Help is on Higashioji Dori a little to the north of Ichijoji. Here is a map.

Open：10:00 am～19:30 pm
(19:00pm on Sundays)
Closed on Wednesdays.
TEL：075-781-3150

 

There is lots of fresh organic produce and other earth friendly products in the supermarket “Farmers” on Marutamachi. Vegetarians can also get these meat substitutes here; “Soy and Wheat Protein Sticks” and “Vege Protein Blocks”, although these are not suitable for the gluten intolerant.

To find “Farmers”, go north on Kawaramachi and turn right onto Marutamachi and it is on your right just past the Figaro restaurant. Here is a map.
Open 10:00 am ~ 21:00 pm
Tel: 075-212-6340.

For more natural products and organic obento lunch-boxes see also the separate article on Earth Kitchen Company

For more natural and vegetarian products available online see: Online Suppliers

Earth Kitchen Company

By

Earth Kitchen Company on Marutamachi offers Japanese “Obento” lunch-boxes that are completely natural, chemical-free and super-nutritious. They have a variety of lunch-boxes on offer; meat-based, fish-based and tofu-based and all are priced at ￥735. In addition to the tofu lunchboxes, vegetarians can also enjoy the veggie salad croquettes, soybean croquettes and deep fried gluten (麩) bentos. All of these come with rice and a variety of seasonal veggie side dishes. This is basically a take-away establishment, though there are a couple of seats available if you want to eat in the store. However, if the weather is nice, a picnic by the Kamogawa is highly recommended. Below are some pictures. Click through to flickr for a closer look.


Earth Kitchen also sells a variety of other eco-friendly foods and products. It can be found on the north side of Marutamachi Street, three doors east of Keihan Marutamachi Station, Exit #4.
Opening hours: 10:30 – 18:30 (Closes 17:30 on Thursdays and 15:30 on Saturdays).
Closed on Sundays and national holidays.
Tel/Fax: 075-771-1897
All lunches are hand-made on the premises so be sure to give advance notice if you are ordering for a large number or people.
Here is a map.