A week ago I paid a visit to live music venue NEGA・POSI. It’s been quite a while since I was last there, but my visit confirmed that it is still a great spot to tap into the local music scene here in Kyoto. For 1,200 yen I got to see three acts; one I knew and two I didn’t. All were charming, talented and quirky in their own special way. I’ll let the music speak for itself. Details of how to find NEGA・POSI can be found here. Check out their scheduled performances here. [Read more…]
Kris Roche Solo Show @ Jittoku
Our friend, the singer/songwriter Kris Roche, is back in town and playing a solo show at the legendary live house Jittoku this Wednesday (17th August). Kris says, “Jittoku is going to be solo acoustic show with some banter about my travels. I’m planning on two shorter sets so that people can socialize and just hang out.”
Here are the details:
Date: Wednesday 17th August
Time: 7pm
Tickets: 1500yen
Location: Jitokku. Situated on the east side of Omiya, north of Marutamachi. Here is a map.
If you are unfamiliar with Kris’ music, you can download both albums for free right here:
http://www.krisrochemusic.
You can also check out some videos of Kris in action below:
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At Modern Times:“What you got”, “What’s going on?”, “Good or Bad”, “What a Wonderful World”, “Waiting in Vain”, my personal favorite “Big Fish“, and “Somewhere Over the Rainbow“.
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At Tadg’s: “25 Ways”, “No Woman, No Cry” & “Living in the Midst”, “Sail Away”, and “Nothing but Shame”.
Jittoku is open 17:30 - 24:00. Live music every night between 19:00 - 21:00. Situated on the east side of Omiya, north of Marutamachi. Click on the picture for an access map and check the website for irregular holidays: http://www2.odn.ne.jp/jittoku/
The Legend of UrBANGUILD
Let me tell you a story, about a place called UrBANGUILD… It’s a kind of fairytale, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t true. And it all began in another place. A place that I like to call cafe underpants.

Once upon a time there was an honest carpenter named Jiro. One day, Jiro was hired by a man of property to design and build a cafe. Jiro was a very fine carpenter and designer, and a very hard worker too, and so in no time at all he created a very fine cafe indeed. The owner of the cafe was very pleased with the work that Jiro had done and asked him to manage his new establishment. They called it independants. Under Jiro’s stewardship this cafe independants became a very special place: a place where musicians and artists could meet and freely experiment, and it became a true centre of the Kyoto avant garde! Unfortunately it didn’t make any money… and naturally the owner of the cafe began to worry. Jiro’s passion was for art, not money – but a cafe can’t continue if it doesn’t make a profit! Sadly the owner told Jiro that he had to go. In the real world, that’s just the way things are. Sadly, we just don’t live in fairytales…

But then something magical happened. Every single member of staff at cafe independants told Jiro that they wanted to continue working with him. They wanted to recreate the same kind of special artistic centre with him in another place. They pooled all their funds together and they found and built another cafe/bar/performance centre on Kiyamachi. They called it UrBANGUILD (!) and having put all their money into it – well they endured some difficult times! But today, that place, that centre devoted to performance and art and music and the free pursuit of self expression is THRIVING! Well, to be honest, it still doesn’t make much money. Jiro, talented and hardworking carpenter that he is, supports it with his own income. And the staff still work there because they value what they do, not for any misguided notions of profit.
But UrBANGUILD is thriving, because it is ALIVE! Over the last twelve months or so, I have visited and revisited this place and I am ADDICTED. For one thing, I love UrBANGUILD for it’s acceptance.

You get some acts here that are mediocre, others that could be interesting but are a little self-involved, and you get some TERRIBLE acts here too! But they are all accepted – and applauded. And then, pretty much every time, you get something very, very special indeed. Something you simply wouldn’t see anywhere else. Because only a place like UrBANGUILD would allow it to happen.
Another reason I love UrBANGUILD, is the inclusive sense of community. It’s easy to make friends here. Come regularly and some faces will become familiar to you – and you to them. You will become drawn into discussion. You will become part of the scene.
Tomorrow, UrBANGUILD is throwing a New Year’s party entitled “Velvet Moon”. I invite you to attend. There are some Deep Kyoto favorites performing: the dancers Bridget Scott and 袋坂ヤスオ, accordionist ryotaro and the mad scientist of sound mr. Sseeaann Rrooee.

And then there are other more intriguing things like Karikatura, a “gypsy, reggae, rumba, flamenco, ska, world, groove, band” from Brooklyn. Here are the details! Check it out! Enjoy!
VELVET MOON!
The Perfomers:
Karikatura (gypsy, reggae, rumba, flamenco, ska, world, groove)
なゆ(dance)

Bridget Scott (dance)
Yangjah (dance) with
糸井宏美(映像)
イガキアキコ(たゆたう)
Jerry Gordon
Sseeaann Rrooee (sound artist)
袋坂ヤスオ (dance) & ryotaro (accordion)
OPEN: 18:00 / START: 19:00
Tickets in advance:1500 yen (includes one drink)

On the door: 2000 yen
at UrBANGUILD
To find it, from Sanjo Dori go down Kiyamachi Dori (this is the narrow street running alongside Takase stream) UrBANGUILD is on the east side (left hand side as you walk down from Sanjo) after approximately 150 metres. It’s on the 3rd floor of New Kyoto Building – access by elevator or stairs. Here’s a map.
Tel: 075-212-1125 Facebook page here.
“Children of Water” & Morphic Jukebox @ Jittoku
Last Friday I attended the Kyoto premiere of Roger Walch‘s new movie “Children of Water” at Jittoku. The venue was a legendary live house in Kyoto (Japan’s oldest in fact) that has been open since 1973. Like the equally famous TakuTaku the building is a converted saka-gura – a kind of traditional sake warehouse. This was my first time to visit this fine old venue.

Folk rock funsters Morphic Jukebox have a couple of songs in the movie’s soundtrack, so they performed a live set before the movie was shown. I’ve put some videos of their performance at the end of this post.
Roger’s movie was an interesting and moving story about different and sometimes clashing cultural attitudes towards child-rearing, and abortion as they play out in a particular cross-cultural relationship. [Read more…]
The Wild Cards at Tadg’s
Tadg’s Irish Bar and Restaurant
The Home of Craft Beer in Kyoto

Four years since it first opened, the Irish pub formerly known as Mc Loughlin’s has been renamed as Tadg’s. Not a big change really, as I think everyone was calling it that anyway. I’ve written previously about this pub; its friendly hospitality and the fantastic views over the river and city. And Tadg’s cooking is also justifiably renowned; he uses locally grown organic vegetables in his many fine creations and the menu features an impressive vegan section. All that aside though, this bar’s most impressive feature is the selection of craft beers: Rogue, Ise Kadoya, Minoh, Yeti Imperial Oak and Victory at Sea… I had a snifter of the latter last night; a fine coffee flavored porter with hints of bitter chocolate like nothing I’ve ever tasted before. Absolutely gorgeous. [Read more…]
Blue Note
A couple of weeks ago, jazz singer Allison Adams Tucker invited me to Blue Note to see her live performance there. It was a great show but also an excellent opportunity to check out this legendary live music venue. I spoke to the current master Ohigashi-san. A mild-mannered chap, he goes by the nickname of Chooper-san (after blues musician Al Kooper), and is as Allison put it “a very cool cat”. Blue Note has been open for 47 years now and has seen a fair number of famous musicians walk through its doors, either to perform or to kick back after performing elsewhere. [Read more…]
Folk Music Workshop @ Irish Pub Gnome
Last weekend’s traditional music workshop at Gnome was a great success and so it looks like there will be many more in the future. Felicity Greenland writes:
Japanese and foreigners all singing together in a cool atmosphere… It’s hard to explain without sounding crass, but really, it’s a very special bonding thing to sing together – everyone has had hard times with themselves and each other, but when you sing together all that really does melt away. Plus, there were a few people who came who are really studying hard at English, or guitar, fiddle or bodhran playing, and want to have a chance to make their studies real. This kind of event really works for them – some of them might play with us in the future and so their efforts have now become very real for them. Let’s do more – please come and tell your mates about it even if you can’t come yourself. Kyoto is the origin and hub of Irish music in Japan – with your energetic contribution it could also become the origin and hub of the English, Irish, Scottish and Welsh singalong too! LINK
Donal Lunny @ TakuTaku
I’m back online at home and so the comments are back on as well. I’ll be adding more locations soon but until then here’s a video of Donal Lunny and The Flying Dugong Band at TakuTaku last night. I filmed a few songs but I think this one is the nicest.
Thanks due to Mewby for pointing out the info about this show to me when we were in Field a couple of weeks back…
Update: There’s a nice review of the show by Ted Taylor on his blog here.
Metro
19 years old this year Metro is a popular location for dance events in all genres. Take a look at their schedule and you’re bound to find something to suit you: rock, reggae, hip-hop, techno, house, electronica and live music too. Last Wednesday I went to Club ’80s night. So much fun! And such a bargain too! For ¥600 you get a free drink, a mix-CD of classic ’80s tunes and a super cheesy trip down dance-tastic memory lane. Take a look at the pictures below and watch out for bewigged dancer Mori Mori whipping up the crowd. You can click the arrows to move them along or go to flickr for a closer look.
Well, I had a blast that night. I think it was the Nik Kershaw that finally got me to my feet. Or was it the Bow Wow Wow? Anyway, once up I didn’t stop dancing till the end at 3:00 a.m. A great night and I really, really recommend it. Club ’80s is on the 3rd Wednesday of every month. Club Metro sits beside the Kamo river on Kawabata Dori, below cafe etw and above Marutamachi Station. Take Exit 2 from the station to find it. Here is a super simple map. Tel: 075-752-2787
Check the schedule on their website for the opening hours.
Related: etw cafe
The Wellers Club
TakuTaku
磔磔 is a live house I’ve been meaning to check out for donkey’s. This converted brewhouse opened as a coffee shop in 1974. In those days the master would spin a few discs for the clientele and there would be one or two live performances a week, but gradually the performances increased and it became the famous live house we know today. I was impressed to see the names of those who have performed here decorating the walls, legends like: Los Lobos, Screaming Jay Hawkins, The Staples Singers, John Lee Hooker… Last weekend I went to see some homegrown talent however; Soul Flower Mononoke Summit, and their guest Oki, an Ainu musician. It was a fun night, but I won’t waste words describing it for you (at least not here). See for yourself! Below is a video of Soul Flower Mononoke Summit after inviting Oki up on stage to join them.
If that tickles your fancy, you can read a review of Oki’s performance over on Ted Taylor’s fine blog Notes from the Nog, and you can see another video up here.
TakuTaku has live music almost every night. Check out their website for details. To find it go south from Shijo on Tominokoji Dori, the second road down is Bukkoji Dori and it’s just a little further on from that on the west side. Here is a most excellent map. Open from 18:00 ~ 23:00. Tel: 075-351-1321
Japanese Folk & Shakuhachi
I know I said the next post would be about Omuraya, but I thought you might like to see this music video from Sunday night at Zac Baran. Local folk musician Udonya Mentei was accompanied by Yoshida Koichi on the shakuhachi to very powerful effect. A great night and so many good songs, I felt pained I only had enough memory on my camera for the one. I don’t know what this song is called, but the lyrics are by Miyazawa Kenji. I believe he wrote them about 6 months before he died.
Oh and a big hello and thanks to Xavier and Patrick who came on Sunday night! It’s nice to know the blog is appreciated!
Next post: Izakaya Omuraya (honest!).
Zac Baran
I first met Yoshida Koichi in the music bar Hawkwind. A shakuhachi player, he told me he plays in many styles, not just traditional, but jazz, folk, avant garde, new age, pretty much anything. In Hawkwind we were listening to some hip-hop. “How about this then?” I challenged him with a grin. And do you know, he stood up immediately, he played, and it was wonderful. I was very impressed (not least because he had obviously had a few). Koichi is still but a student of shakuhachi though, so he supports himself by working part-time at the jazz cafe, bar and diner Zac Baran. I decided to go and visit him there in the New Year.
Zac Baran, is listed in 新版 京都音楽空間
(Kyoto Music Spot Guide) as one of the “legendary places” of Kyoto. It first opened in 1977 during Kyoto’s jazz boom along with other great jazz cafes like Yamatoya and Lush Life. Zac Baran is not so strict about the jazz as those other locations though. In the entryway you will find a stash of over 2000 old vinyl records that includes blues and latin music and the current management are clearly not averse to a bit of rock guitar too. When I visited I found myself watching DVDs of The Police, Stevie Ray Vaughn and Nirvana on the big screen. Not what I was expecting! Among the succession of owners Zac Baran has had over the years, one was clearly a fan of the Freak Brothers as their images are all over the walls. I asked current owner Nakano Koji what kind of people come here now. “We get musicians, not so many salarymen… students from the nearby university… doctors and nurses from the nearby hospital…”
“And maybe a few patients too!” quipped regular customer Kikuchi Yousuke. He himself is a jazz pianist. “Why don’t Koichi and I play a little something for you?” he said and so they gave an impromptu performance which you can see at the end of this post. First here are some pictures to give you a flavour of the place:
The drinks menu here is reasonably priced. A draft beer will cost you ¥600. Spirits and cocktails cost between ¥600 – ¥750. They also have coffee and soft drinks. Food is cheap too and they have a big range of dishes to choose from (on an English menu!): pizza, curry, noodles, stir fries, quiche, etc. Live music events are frequent, and the space can be rented for parties. As for the atmosphere? It’s a dimly lit but friendly place in which to meet interesting and sometimes very talented people. Zac Baran means frank speech or straight talking, and that being its guiding principal, this is a place where you can relax and freely speak your mind.
Zac Baran is on the north side of Marutamachi a short walk east of Higashioji Dori. Here is a most convenient map. Open everyday 18:00 ~ 04:00.
Tel: 075-751-9748
Here’s that video for you:
In Search of… the Craic
In December 2008 my friend David Ewen and I (that’s us on the left) decided to go on an Irish pub crawl and see exactly what each place had to offer in terms of food, drink, music and the elusive craic. What follows is a list of the five pubs we visited, a summary of what we found there and a map to each location. For a fuller article, more pictures and directions click on the name of each pub. However, before I continue, I must say if you are only in Kyoto for a short time you shouldn’t be wasting precious time in Irish pubs at all, so stop reading now and go somewhere Japanese instead. This article is for long term residents only!
Very popular with expats but has more character than your average chain pub. A good menu with plenty of vegetarian options. Irish music every week and jazz monthly. Six screens show major sporting events. The staff are very courteous and professional. Map.
Tadg’s (formerly Mc Loughlin’s)
A gastro-pub specialising in micro-brew beers, they even have a chocolate flavored beer! Stunning views over the river Kamo and the city. Very personable staff and a very likeable and chatty owner the house chef, Tadg. Map.
Dublin (formerly The Hill of Tara)
Not the cosiest pub (perhaps because of it’s long, narrow interior) but with friendly staff and a good mix of Japanese and foreign punters. Excellent local musicians play Irish music here Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Map at the bottom of this link.
The first Irish pub to open in Kyoto back in 2000, Field is all about the music. Irish music sessions are held twice a week and there is a recording and practice studio upstairs. Mostly Japanese punters here. It’s a nice place for a quiet pint. Map
My personal favorite. Wonderful Irish style home-cooked food with lots of organic veggies and vegetarian options. A cosy atmosphere and a very friendly owner. The live music schedule is interestingly eclectic. Map.
Related article: Irish music at Cafe Woodnote