Kiyamachi Bar Crawl

Update 2025: Back in 2009, accompanied by my old drinking buddy David Ewen, I set out to explore some of the bar culture in the Kiyamachi area armed with my copy of 京都穴BAR (a Japanese pocket guide to Kyoto’s hole-in-the-wall bars). In one evening we visited eight bars, of which, sad to say, 16 years later, just three remain. My original reviews of those three bars are posted below.

… Before I take you through the tour I should say though that most of the people in these bars whether owners, staff or regulars speak little or no English. If you can’t speak Japanese at all, you might want to stop reading now. However, if you do want to speak Japanese, meet some locals in a friendly atmosphere, or if you are just tired of the usual foreigner hang-outs – read on!

Room 335

The master, Yamaguchi-san, opened this bar 11 years ago and named it after the recording studio of his favorite musician: Larry Carlton. This is very much a musician’s bar; instruments bedeck the walls, a big double bass dominates one corner, and there are very often live shows here by musicians both local and from further afield. The prices here are reasonable, and the atmosphere is one of elegant comfort.

Yamaguchi-san, himself is a cheerful chap, hailing originally from Osaka. He kept us entertained with many an engaging story of his experiences whilst sipping at his favorite tipple: Four Roses. He told us that foreigners actually often come to this bar (some of them led here after meeting girls in a nearby Gion Irish pub!) but that as he doesn’t speak any English his staff or his regular customers sometimes have to help him out.

Our only gripe with Room335 was we weren’t too keen on the “contemporary jazz fusion” being played here. It was a little too much like cheesy elevator music for our tastes. However, I took my girl Mewby back there a week later and the music was great and as Yamaguchi-san has an enormous CD selection I’m sure you could put in a request.

Our Rating: Four stars. In every respect this was an excellent bar in which to start the evening.

Yamaguchi-san’s message to the readers: 日本語勉強して来てください！(笑)

Location: A 3rd floor bar between Pontocho and Kiyamachi two streets down from Sanjo on the south side. Here is a map.
Open: 19:30  ~ around 5:00 am weekdays & till around 3:00 am on weekends. There may be a charge if there is a live performance.
Telephone: 075-211-7713

Galaxie 500

Galaxie 500 is on the second floor of the たかせ会館 (Takase Kaikan) building. Actually, it’s not in the 京都穴BAR guide (though it is in this one) but David was so thrilled to see a bar named after this little known indie rock trio that we just had to go in.

The master Hashime-san, himself a former punk band member started this bar seven years back. He places his own musical roots very firmly in New York punk and No Wave so the music of Patti Smith, Blondie, and influential synthpunk duo Suicide are prominent. But from this, Hashime-san’s music collection expands out to anything with an alternative or psychedelic edge. Hashime-san told us that foreigners often come here on the weekends but those that come can usually speak Japanese pretty well.

Our rating: Four stars. A good place to expand your musical horizons.

Hashime-san’s message: 色んないい音楽たくさんあるから来てくださいね。

Location: Go north on Kiyamachi from Shijo, take the second street on your left, then take the next turning on your right. The たかせ会館 building is on your left. Galaxie 500 is on the 2nd floor. Here is a map.
Open: 20.00 – 24.00 everyday

Jelly Beans Rocket

Finally pulling ourselves out of the たかせ会館 building we made our way to Jelly Beans Rocket. I was curious about the name – it turns out to be a homage to Kyoto born illustrator and masked rock n’ roller Rockin’ Jelly Bean. Ten years ago the master, Aoyama-san opened this bar and named it after his sempai. Previously Aoyama-san had worked as a cook so this is a dining bar with quite a few tasty looking items on the menu.

The atmosphere was young and Aoyama-san told us the regulars tend to be people who work in the neighborhood, in Hankyu department store or local restaurants and bars. As for music, I heard a lot of 90’s pop while I was there, and Aoyama-san professes himself to be a Doobie Brothers fan, but basically anything goes. What’s most important, he says, is having a laugh.

Our Rating: Four stars. This place is fun.

Aoyama-san’s message: 気軽に来てください！

Location: Just across the road from Galaxie 500 on the 2nd floor of the Kiyamachi Okamoto Building (木屋町岡本ビル). (Note that the location has changed since our 2009 visit.) Here is a map.
Open: 17.00 ~ around 5.00 am.
Telephone:075-754-8468

Related: Ian Ropke’s Along the Takasegawa.

Text and images by Michael Lambe. All rights reserved.