Deep Kyoto

good places - good people

Ain Soph Journey Kyoto (Formerly Matsuontoko) – Vegan Burger Cafe

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日本語はこちら

Update 2023: Matsuontoko is now known as Ain. Soph Journey Kyoto (catchy!) — but it is still a vegan restaurant serving delicious burgers, curries and kara-age!

Though there are quite a large number of vegetarian establishments in Kyoto, most of them are located in the north of the city, and the few there are in the city center tend to sell nothing that isn’t healthy and nutritious. Good vegan junk food is pretty hard to come by. There used to be a branch of Speakeasy on Shijo that did a passable veggie burger, but that closed down back in 2010. Since then our vegan brethren have been denied the delights of fast and convenient processed treats at a convenient location and forced to endure a steady diet of tofu and wholegrain rice. No more! Vegan cafe Matsuontoko Ain Soph. Journey Kyoto is here to save the day, slap bang in the center of town, with a fine array of vegan fake-meats!

So convincing are these fake-meats that one of Mewby’s friends was half-way through her “kara-age” before she realised it wasn’t chicken at all. And that was only because Mewby told her.

“Really,” Mewby told me. “You’ll be amazed.”
“Well, alright then.” I said. So I went. And here’s my order.

How good was it? Very good. The bread was actually really nice too. I was entirely satisfied. But I decided to pig out on onion rings anyway. They were nice sweet onions and non too greasy.

And they also had this lovely little cup of tofu ice-cream, cream and vegan brownies.

In short, whether you are vegan or no, if have a hankering for fast food at a reasonable price, Matsuontoko Ain Soph. Journey Kyoto is the place to go.

Ain Soph Journey Kyoto is just east of Shinkyogoku, three streets up from Shijo. Here is a map. Check the website for other items on the menu. There are a lot of choices.

Ain Soph Journey Kyoto has some slightly complicated business hours.
Normal business hours are as follows:
Open: 11:30～17:00 (Last Orders: 16:00), 18:00 ~ 20.00 (Last Entry: 18.45, Last Orders: 19.00)
But sometimes they are only open for lunch and then business hours are as follows:
Open: 10.00 ~ 16.00 (Last Orders: 15.00)
Holidays are irregular.
Tel: 075-251-1876

Original article posted February, 2013. Updated July 2023.
Text and images by Michael Lambe. All rights reserved. 

Asipai Curry & Hibi Coffee

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Asipai & Hibi Coffee are two wonderful businesses working together in the same shared space to bring you the very best artisanal coffee and startlingly delicious curries.

The colorful interior of this cosy little cafe/curry house.

I was really impressed with this place, with the friendly staff, with the presentation of the food and drink, and most of all with the taste. The curry was really good, and the cafe latte I ordered was one of the best I’ve had in Kyoto with a really rich, full flavor.

These people really put their heart into their work.

There are a variety of curries on offer with chicken, shrimp, and pork options and a vegetarian chickpea curry too. All are made to an original recipe, and I’m not sure what it is but it’s not your typical Japanese curry. This is good stuff.

This was a really nourishing, fulfilling chickpea curry as tasty as it looks and just spicy enough to stimulate your appetite.

This is a cozy little hideaway, ideal for a quiet lunch if you are in the mood for either curry or just a slice of cake and a cup of coffee. Take-away curry or coffee-to-go are also available, and there is free Wi-Fi in the shop.

A lovely spot for a meal or cake (Hibi Coffee does really good cake).

The Asipai & Hibi Coffee shop is tucked away down a little lane just off the north-east corner of Shichijo and Kawaramachi streets. It’s about 10 minutes walk north of Kyoto Station and 4 minutes walk west of Shichijo Station. Look out for the sign at the front of the lane. Here is a MAP of the location.

There’s plenty of signage at the intersection to show you the way.

Open: Hibi Coffee is open from 8.00 till 19.00
Asipai serves lunch from 11.30 till 15.00 (last orders at 14.45) and dinner from 18.00 – 21.00
Both businesses are closed on Tuesdays.
Address:460 Zaimoku-cho, Shichijo Doori/Kawaramachi Higashi-iru, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto 〒600-8146
Tel: 075-276-3526

Yak & Yeti – Nepalese Curry in Kyoto

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Yak and Yeti is a restaurant we go back to time and time again for two reasons. One is the super friendly staff who never fail to put a smile on our faces. And the other is their legendary Vegetable Phuraula, Nepali style spicy vegetable tempura. It’s amazing. This restaurant is super popular with vegetarians for the range of tasty vegan options they have on their menu but you don’t have to be vegan to enjoy them. They are soooo good. And of course they have plenty of carnivorous options too. We usually share one curry and a naan bread and get a range of their fantastic appetisers. Here’s what we had last time.

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Generally, they have two Nepali beers available, Mustang, which has a subtle but musky flavour, and Nepali Ice which is crisper and lighter on the tongue. The spicy papadums were a special treat from the restaurant, and went so nicely with that first beer. [Read more…]

All New Falafel Garden

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A couple of weeks ago we went to check out the new location for Falafel Garden. A short walk north of Demachiyanagi on Kawabata, this new shop opened on April 28th. The old Falafel Garden was always a popular spot, but I think I like this new one even more. It’s bigger, more comfortable, they have a nice big garden out the back and if you are lucky you can snag a balcony seat upstairs and sit outside in the cool breeze watching those dinky little toy-like trains of the Eiden line roll by.

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And the food of course is as good as ever. Mewby ordered a double sandwich set of chicken kebab and falafel (1290 yen).

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Whereas I went for a simple large falafel sandwich (1150 yen). Did we get fries with that (100 yen)? Yes, we did! It was great, but I think in retrospect, my eyes were bigger than my tummy and a medium sized sandwich would have sufficed.

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So to summarize, the new Falafel Garden is just as good as the old one, if not better, and those healthy, nutritious, golden balls of goodness are just as tasty as before. Keep this fine institution going and give them some of your custom at the location below!
Open: Everyday 11:00 am ~ 21:30 (last orders) ~ 22:00 (closes)
The 2nd floor is non-smoking.
Tel: 075-712-1856

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Kamo’s All You Can Eat Veggie Buffet

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Now that Obanzai’s organic buffet is closing, it is good to know that there are alternatives. Kamo serves up all organic locally grown vegetables in all kinds of tasty combinations. They take pride in the fact their vegetables are 都野菜 or “Miyako vegetables” which means they are truly local. Apparently the famed label 京野菜 – “Kyo yasai” does not always guarantee that the veggies actually come from Kyoto! Mewby and I went there a couple of weeks ago for lunch and thought it was pretty good value. Here’s Mewby’s lunch:

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Here’s mine:

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As you can see there is plenty of variety. Here are the details:
Morning light meal buffet(7:00 ～ 10:00): ￥480 (includes a soft drink)
Lunch-time buffet (11:00 ～ 16:00): ￥880 （when full they have a one hour limit）
Dinner-time buffet (17:00 ～ 23:00): ￥1,300 （when full they have an 80 minute limit）
Limitless soft drinks: ￥300
All You Can Drink with alcohol: ￥950

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Location: On the south-east corner of Higashinotoin and Ayanokouji. One block east of Karasuma and one block south of Shijo. Here is a MAP.
Tel: 075-351-2732
Website: http://nasukamo.net

Chakra Indian Restaurant

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We found another great curry place! Mewby and I stumbled across Chakra last night while out for an evening stroll, and although we hadn’t intended to eat out, we were tempted in at the thought of Bengal curry goodness…
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There are a lot of choices on the menu, and everything seems pretty reasonably priced. There are also a lot of vegetarian/vegan options: 8 different veggie curries to choose from! Mewby being carnivorous chose a chicken korma (1,200 yen):

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And I had a Shaee vegetable korma (1100 yen). Both of our meals were delicious.

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The sweet naan (500 yen) we ordered to accompany our meals was the star attraction though. Packed with dried fruits and coconut, we both loved it.

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Chakra is on the corner of Gojo and Higashioji at the bottom of the Kiyomizu slope – an area that basically shuts down in the evenings, so I think this restaurant gets most of its business at lunchtime. If you go in the evening, it’s nice and quiet, and the background ethnic music is gentle on ears the too. Bento lunch boxes (700 yen) and takeaway meals are also available. All in all, we were very happy with our Chakra experience and will definitely be back to try more items on the menu.

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Godfather & Cobra Indian beers available!
Open: Monday – Sunday: 11:00 – 22:00
TEL:  075-525-1260
Email: ashishich@hotmail.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/chakra.kyoto
Location: On the west side of Higashioji Street just north of Gojo at the bottom of Gojozaka. The Gojo Zaka bus stop is right outside. Here is a MAP.

Somushi

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Somushi is a beautiful Korean tea shop on the north side of Sanjo, a short walk west of Karasuma.

John Einarsen and I have gotten into the habit of meeting up here whenever a new issue of Kyoto Journal comes out. These pictures were taken in the spring. [Read more…]

Tadg’s Irish Bar and Restaurant

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The Home of Craft Beer in Kyoto

Meet the family: Jimmy, Tadg, Mika, and Ben.

Four years since it first opened, the Irish pub formerly known as Mc Loughlin’s has been renamed as Tadg’s. Not a big change really, as I think everyone was calling it that anyway. I’ve written previously about this pub; its friendly hospitality and the fantastic views over the river and city. And Tadg’s cooking is also justifiably renowned; he uses locally grown organic vegetables in his many fine creations and the menu features an impressive vegan section. All that aside though, this bar’s most impressive feature is the selection of craft beers: Rogue, Ise Kadoya, Minoh, Yeti Imperial Oak and Victory at Sea… I had a snifter of the latter last night; a fine coffee flavored porter with hints of bitter chocolate like nothing I’ve ever tasted before. Absolutely gorgeous. [Read more…]

Speak Easy

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UPDATE!! JUNE 14th 2010: Hankering for a gluten burger and onion rings yesterday, I went along to the Karasuma branch of Speak Easy only to be deeply disappointed. It’s not there any more. Presumably the Shugakuin branch is still intact though. Mewby and I intend to venture north next weekend and find out.

Every now and again I am overcome by a terrible yearning for junk food. But not just any old chain-store-Big-Mac-style-mass-produced junk food. I want junk food with character. I want junk food of superior quality. I want to eat it in some comfort and away from the common horde. And I want to wash it down with beer too. In all these respects Speak Easy satiates all my more sordid culinary desires. They have burgers of every description (even vegetarian), and mexican food,  and bagel sandwiches, and really unhealthy but oh so tasty looking American breakfasts with bacon and eggs and french toast and hash browns and all that jazz. And booze. They got booze too. (Hence the name, eh?)

On our last visit Mewby opted for a cheese burger. She likes her cheese burger with bacon and guacamole.

Cheese Burger (￥750) + Bacon (￥80) + Guacamole (￥100)

I on the other hand declined the meat options and had myself a big old greasy slab of gluten.

The vegetarian Gluten Burger (￥750)

It goes down really nicely with a glass of Sapporo draft beer (￥600).

The Speak Easy we frequent is on the north side  of Nishikikoji doori between Takakura and Higashinotoin. There’s a much older one up on Kitayama by Shuugakuin though. You can find maps to both locations here and take a look at the menu here.

Speak Easy on Nishikikoji is open Monday to Wednesday from 11:00～20:00
and Friday, Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 11:00~23:00
Closed on Thursdays
Tel:075-241-9388

Yoramu

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Last Thursday Nick Coldicott, was in town and invited me out to sake bar Yoramu.  Nick is the editor of Time Out Shortlist Kyoto and also writes a drinks column for the Japan Times, so when he said that Yoramu was his favorite bar, I was naturally intrigued. Yoramu lived up to his promise. The master, Yoram, a quietly spoken Israeli perfectly fluent in English and Japanese, gently guides his customers through an impressive variety of flavors and happily explains how each fine beverage is made. Speaking honestly, I know nothing about sake – or I didn’t until I visited this bar – but one evening there is an education and a tasty one at that! I felt like a whole new fascinating world of booze had been opened up to me and Nick himself admitted “I never cared about nihonshu until I came here”. Many thanks are due to the calm yet charismatic master, Yoram. His passion for nihonshu and his enthusiasm is infectious.IMG_2178 sepia [Read more…]

Na no hana

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Out for a stroll last night I stumbled across health and whole food shop 菜花 (na no hana). They have plenty of organic vegetables and fruit here, all kinds of natural cooking ingredients, vegan food supplies and earth-friendly cleaning products. 菜花 sits about halfway between Demachiyanagi and Hyakumanben. If that isn’t convenient, they do deliveries. To find it, just walk east of the Eiden line exit of Demachiyanagi station, past Falafel Garden and further on past the Heming Sports Club until you get to the Omuraya オムライス (omelette and rice) place on your right. Turn right here and go past Kroon Thai restaurant and it’s on your left just before Rico Rico Spanish restaurant. Here is a most convenient map (the red circle marks the spot).
Opens weekdays: 10:00 ~ 20:00
Saturday: 10:00 ~ 19:00
Closed on Sundays and national holidays.
Tel: 075-711-8264

Related:
Online Supplies
Natural Food Stores in Kyoto

Hale ~晴~

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Hidden away in the heart of the bustling market on Nishiki Dori is a tiny little alleyway that leads to Hale. This is a fully organic and vegan restaurant, specialising in seasonal dishes, yuba tofu and Kyoto’s famously distinctive vegetables. For lunch you can have a ￥1000 set or the “Special Lunch” for ￥1800. I settled for the ￥１０００ lunch which you can see amid the pictures below and which was more than ample enough for me.

Even if you are not vegetarian, Hale is worth a visit for its traditional cuisine or just to spend a pleasant hour or so in a peaceful old machiya house quietly contemplating the central garden. A wide range of beverages are also available, coffees, teas, soy drinks, juices, beers and shochu and even something made of dandelions – but I didn’t go for that. To find it walk along Nishiki Dori between the Fuyacho and Tominokoji streets and look out for that little alleyway on the north side of the market. Here is a most helpful map. It might be worth booking ahead on weekends as Hale is both small and popular.
Opening hours: Monday & Wednesday ~ 11:30 – 18:00 / Wednesday – Sunday ~ 11:30 – 14:30 and 16:00 – 21:00. (Closed on Tuesdays).
Tel: 075-231-2516

Mole

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On Gokomachi Dori, just a little north of Oike Dori and just removed from the hubbub of the city, is a little corner of peace-of-mind: the ambient cafe Mole. The entrance is wreathed in greenery and looks for all the world like a flower shop. Enter and be greeted by the sound of chimes. Everything here; the plants, the decor, the music and the softly spoken staff, all are gentle on the eye and ear.

They have a tasty menu too:

DRINKS:

Hot Coffee: ￥500 Cafe Latte (single): ￥550 (double): ￥650
American Coffee: ￥500 Cafe Mocha: ￥650
Ice Coffee: ￥500 Caramel Latte: ￥650
Espresso: ￥500

Earl Grey / Assam / Darjeeling / Chai (Hot/Ice): ￥500

Cocoa: ￥550 Hot Cinnamon Chocolate: ￥650 Maccha (Green Tea) Milk: ￥650

Banana Shake: ￥650 Banana Espresso: ￥750 Orange Juice: ￥500
Ebisu Draft Beer: ￥500

FOOD:

Curries: Keema Matar / Chickpea / Cashew & Walnut (all come with salad): ￥700
Fried Whole Grain Rice (with soup & salad): ￥700
Sandwiches (with home-baked bread), choose two fillings from below for ￥700
Avocado, lettuce & tomato / Bacon, lettuce & tomato / Egg & Cream Cheese / Humous, lettuce & tomato
Home-baked Bagel with Cream Cheese and Maple Syrup: ￥500
Vegetable Soup and Home-baked Bread: ￥600
Home-baked Cakes (various): ￥400
Fried Banana Ice-cream: ￥600

As you can see, this kind of variety on the menu bears repeated visits. Most of the food uses organic ingredients and there are plenty of vegetarian options to boot. Here are some pictures of the delightful interior to feast your eyes on. Click through to flickr for a better look.

As I wrote above, Mole is on Gokomachi, just a little north of Oike, on your right. Look out for a mass of green. There is a map on this page if you get lost.

See also:
Cafe Gospel
Cafe Mo-an

In Search of… Natural Food

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Here is a short list of locations where you can get hold of natural food supplies and other earth friendly products while in Kyoto. It is far from exhaustive I’m sure, so if you know of any other places you think should be up here, write and tell me in the comments box below, or send me a mail at luain37@yahoo.co.jp.

Donguri is a small shop on Kitaoji that is packed full of goodies. In addition to natural foods and health products they also sell an array of meat substitutes. This “Daizu Marugoto Meat Slice” is made from soyabeans and is a good source of protein for our vegetarian bretheren. Just soak in water before adding it to your meal. You can also buy Tempeh here, a very versatile meat substitute that goes very well with a glass of beer.

To find Donguri go north on Higashioji Dori, turn right onto Kitaoji and it is on your right before you get to the railway tracks. Click here for a map.
Open from 10:00 am – 19:00 pm
Closed on Sundays.
TEL:075-712-0274
If you go to the web-page and click on the yellow smiley face (about half-way down) you can print out some coupons.

Help is a large supermarket with everything you could want from a normal supermarket, except it’s all natural and they have an excellent recycling system for all their waste. They also stock the “Daizu Marugoto Meat” pictured above. Help is on Higashioji Dori a little to the north of Ichijoji. Here is a map.

Open：10:00 am～19:30 pm
(19:00pm on Sundays)
Closed on Wednesdays.
TEL：075-781-3150

Natural Station: Wendy Mama sells organic produce, health foods, supplements, and earth friendly cleaning products and toiletries. Natural Station sits on the south side of Shimei Dori between Karasuma and Horikawa. Here is a map.
Open: 10:00 am – 19:00 pm (Closed on Sundays)
Tel: ０７５－４１１－４４６０

There is lots of fresh organic produce and other earth friendly products in the supermarket “Farmers” on Marutamachi. Vegetarians can also get these meat substitutes here; “Soy and Wheat Protein Sticks” and “Vege Protein Blocks”, although these are not suitable for the gluten intolerant.

To find “Farmers”, go north on Kawaramachi and turn right onto Marutamachi and it is on your right just past the Figaro restaurant. Here is a map.
Open 10:00 am ~ 21:00 pm
Tel: 075-212-6340.

Update December 17th 2008: Here’s another one! Organic veggies, health & whole foods and natural cleaning products at 菜花. Click on the link to read more!

For more natural products and organic obento lunch-boxes see also the separate article on Earth Kitchen Company

For more natural and vegetarian products available online see: Online Suppliers