After a hard days tramping round shrines and temples, what better than a good meal, and a cool quenching beverage? Or perhaps you would prefer a good cup of coffee and some ambient sounds to help you wind down. But where to go? Well, there are many “British-style” pubs and Starbuckses aplenty if you need to retreat back to your comfort zone, and no blame to you if you do. But if you want to challenge yourself a bit further, dust off that phrasebook and encounter the average people who make up modern