Ian Ropke writes: Mackerel or saba comes into season this month. In the Heian period (794-1185), mackerel were delivered to Kyoto from the Japan Sea via the saba kaido—a 75-kilometer route connecting Kyoto with the port of Obama. To get the fish here, fifteen kilogram baskets packed with about twenty kilograms of salted mackerel were carried on horseback and on human backs … [Read more...] about Saba Kaido – The Old Mackerel Highway
Miss Daisy’s English Tea Room
This looks nice, doesn't it? This is the rudest shop in Kyoto. … [Read more...] about Miss Daisy’s English Tea Room
Kiyamachi Bar Crawl
Update 2025: Back in 2009, accompanied by my old drinking buddy David Ewen, I set out to explore some of the bar culture in the Kiyamachi area armed with my copy of 京都穴BAR (a Japanese pocket guide to Kyoto's hole-in-the-wall bars). In one evening we visited eight bars, of which, sad to say, 16 years later, just three remain. My original reviews of those three bars are posted … [Read more...] about Kiyamachi Bar Crawl
Walking Kyoto – Hōnen-in
Ian Ropke writes: This summer take the narrow road south from the gate of Ginkaku-ji Temple to the elevated world of Hōnen-in Temple. Here you will find the sun shining on a large bamboo grove. Here you will find birds singing sweetly high above. Here you will experience long, silent moments. If one walks this same path every day, one will discover the fresh new … [Read more...] about Walking Kyoto – Hōnen-in
Frank Signage
Cycling down Yasaka Dori today I spotted this "ukiyo-e small museum"... ...and the sign pleased me. … [Read more...] about Frank Signage
Gion Festival
Tourists who came from afar were apt to think that the Gion Festival consisted of only the parade of floats on the seventeenth of July. Many also came to Hiezan on the night of the sixteenth. But the real ceremonies of Gion Festival continued all through July. In the various districts in Kyoto, each of which had its own Gion float, the festival bands began to perform and the … [Read more...] about Gion Festival
Feeling Blue?
Here's Ian Ropke with some advice for beating the summer blues... Nine tips for residents who are feeling a bit low or a bit homesick For foreigners who find themselves in Kyoto and who are feeling lonely or homesick, here are a few simple things you can do to get through the day with a smile. 1. Try to get to know as many dogs as you can. When you can't get human … [Read more...] about Feeling Blue?
Walder
Walder is a German style bakery on Fuyacho Street, just south of Rokkaku Street. They have an impressive range of tasty looking loaves, pastries and treats... … [Read more...] about Walder
Fleur de Farine
Today I bought my lunch at the bakery Fleur de Farine. This tiny little store sells french style loaves in a variety of shapes and sizes. Apparently, they also sell a British style loaf but it is always sold out when I go there. … [Read more...] about Fleur de Farine
Gokou-yu
Whether you are worn out after a stressful day at work, or from trawling round temples, or from working out at the gym, or whatever - nothing beats a good soak in the tub for physical and mental repose. And if you go to a public bath like a Japanese sento or onsen, the negative ions there will boost your mood and relax you much more than would a private bath. Two years ago I … [Read more...] about Gokou-yu
Along the Takasegawa: Pontocho and Kiyamachi
Old, quiet memories in a wild, new world The Takasegawa Canal Ian Ropke writes... This month, if you have the time, consider strolling down the Takegawa Canal along the lively, yet always interesting, world of Kiyamachi and Pontocho. Though the Takasegawa is called a river in Japanese, it is actually a canal, built with thousands of laborers. This is quite amazing, … [Read more...] about Along the Takasegawa: Pontocho and Kiyamachi
